Into the Ghats we went this morning. Chasing birds.
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I've often said that #travel doesn't have to be expensive. In Dandeli we stayed at a campsite called BeOnTheTrail that charged us ₹1000 per night for pitching three tents. This included the use of all facilities on their campsite including a bathroom with geyser, and a campfire each night. Boating was ₹100 per head, kayaking was perhaps ₹300. In Gokarna we are paying ₹500 for pitching a tent at a campsite by the beach. Food at both places was about ₹2000 per day for six people. Petrol has been expensive, costing us more per day than stay and food, but we could have used public buses instead of a car.
That said, I recognise that travel is a privilege. Not everyone has a job that they can work on remotely, or can get leaves from. Not everyone has a car to just up and go. We've paid dearly for the space to store all of our camping gear. I have Sharada to take care of my plants when I'm gone. The list goes on. Just because I'm not spending much on this trip doesn't mean that I don't have other hidden means that enable this trip.
So, umm, if my travel pics encourage you to take short breaks more often, that's very nice. If they make you feel that you don't have the means to enjoy life as much as others, then I'm truly sorry I've made you feel this way. I wish I could tag Instagram pics in a way that you could filter out the travel pics.
I went camping with some friends three years ago, to Kasauli. They reached out to say that that trip would always be a core memory for their kids. And that my kids would have so many more such memories. Which is very generous of them, but it is also true. If you do have the means, and you have kids, yet you just sit on your butt all weekend, or all you do is luxury travel that doesn't let your kids connect with nature and with rural India, then really, get off your butt and go somewhere.
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Don't go into the #mountains in the #monsoons, they said. We've been driving through #clouds and the #rain for hours now. Wonderful #roads so far.
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South Goa has cute little waterfalls sprinkled everywhere. Kesarval is conveniently off the national highway. Nice, nice.
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From here, we will drive into those cloudy hills, on the border of Goa and KA
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The Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher. Leeches are common in the Himalayas during the rains, and we should have been more careful. When M1 finally looked down to see leeches crawling all over our feet, our panic must have been a comic sight to see. The only time before that I've had leeches on me was in 22 years ago, in the Western Ghats. And it wasn't fun even then. Ugh.
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Be the first to identify all the sparrows in this picture, and get a free pass to 2021.
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#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia
#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia
#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia
#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia
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#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia #flowers #nature #flower #flowerstagram #art #flores #macro #roses #floral #green #beauty #handmade #florist
#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia #flowers #nature #flower #flowerstagram #art #flores #macro #roses #floral #green #beauty #handmade #florist
#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia
#varanasi #india #banaras #kashi #banarasi #travel #varanasidiaries #uttarpradesh #photography #benaras #ganga #incredibleindia #ghat #gangaghat #gangaghats #travelphotography #varanasiindia
The #ghats are such an unstoppable adventure
Even though the #children can't venture into the #sea, they are still #excited to see it after a long #road trip.
Hard to take good photographs when it's pouring as much as it is. The #ghats in the #rain are something else.
It's 7:45 am and the #skies over #Kurukshetra are #overcast. Its been a pleaseant 25°C since we entered the plains. We are actually driving without air conditioning. Did we bring the mountain #weather with us?
Now we are #driving through the #hills of #Chail while it lightly #drizzles.
The #hills of #Kufri are full of #trash, #tree #stumps, #people and #cars. Sad.
The #drive and the #road are amazing, just like @deepankarbasu had said.
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We have come to a resort near our campsite for dinner.
In every #campsite and #resort across India, #wood is #burned for a nightly #bonfire. There is the consumption of chips and soda by children, to the accompaniment of loud music that can be heard for half a mile around. In spite of all these arrangements, most children can't be bothered to lift their heads out of their cellphones.
Is ritualistic #consumption all that we have to offer to our children? And if all adults want to do is consume large amounts of liquor, why do they drive all the way to the hills for it? Not once have these families left their resort to enjoy the beauty of nature all around them - to meet local people, listen to birds, admire flowers.
To each their own. But observing this drama makes me feel we are doing something right.
But at least we should leave the trees out of it. Tens of thousands of resorts are burning bonfires every night. Instead of hugging and loving trees people are going into nature to burn them. Sad.
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January and February is ski 🎿 season in Narkanda. You come to Narkanda town, and 500 meters from it is the ski place. Snow is two to three feet, but they pile up snow at places for skiing.
For hotels, it is an off season 😲. Rates are lower than they are now, which is peak season. The cost of skiing and equipment rental for half a day is ₹1,000. The national highway is pretty clean and snow is removed from it regularly, so it's easy to drive up.
Why do I not know of this? Who wants to come ski this winter? Decathlon was even selling skis when we visited them a week ago. But why buy when we can rent?
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The #drive from #Rampur to #Narkand is what #mountain dreams are made of. #Smooth #tarmac, wide #road, breathtaking scenery.
Pin Valley was something else.
If you're short on time and want to experience the essential #Spiti Valley, just drive from Shimla till #Tabo and return. The road is mostly awesome. There is no need for you to go to Sangla, Chitkul, Nako, Pin, etc. After the awe of the Nako to Tabo section, everything else is a variation of the same theme.
We had to turn back from Kaza because the Manali route wasn't open. Therefore we also missed Ky and Kunzum Top.
I'm going to now try and take you through the grandeur that is the #SpitiValley between #Nako and #Tabo. We did the route on Tuesday, but I've been avoiding putting up pics.
Pictures and videos are too small the capture the vastness, the other worldliness of this place. The only way to know it is to bite the blue pill and come on over to see it for yourself.
The ride quality of the #Innova #Crysta is pretty amazing. The steering wheel requires more force than a Hyundai Xcent. There isn’t any perceptible body roll. The 2.5L petrol engine is adequate.
In the plains I was driving in Eco Mode. In the mountains I realised it leads to a peculiar situation. When I try to overtake another vehicle while going uphill, I need to press the throttle all the way down before the automatic tranmission will downshift. Then it downshifts twice, and the engine lets out the most unnerving growl. I have seen the most seasoned Bolero drivers look around at the car when it growls like this, and make way for it. Which is not what I want. I am here to have a travel and share the road, not be the boss of the road. Turning off Eco fixes this. I haven’t tried Power Mode yet.
I am told that the ground clearance of the Crysta is higher than the older Innova. But still not high enough to take us past Kunzum Pass. In any case, the kids aren’t enamoured with snow any more. So we will just hang around here for a while and turn around, not risk it at the pass.
About an hour before #Nako, on Tuesday, we lost phone signal. We did get a #BSNL SIM, and Nako is supposed to have #3G connectivity, but there was no signal at Nako. The restauranteur at Nako was elated that #Jio would soon bring #4G connectivity to the entire #Spiti Valley. We reached #Tabo by nightfall on Tuesday. We parked in the lot opposite the Monastery. We had lovely dinner, including pizza with olives. Sleep came easily after a long day of driving. We were #cozy in the #caravan inspite of the cold winds and rain outside.
It was supposed to #snow on Wednesday morning but that did not happen. The kids weren’t too dissappointed. We got busy looking for a place to shower. The lovely people at Kunzom Cafe offered us the use of their solar heated shower at no cost. As I sat there chatting with the owner, he told me that we all need to keep ourselves fully covered and warm. Weather changes suddenly around here, and the temperature difference between night and day is high. People coming from the plains fall sick easily.
Just as he was telling me this, I felt illness take over me. I moved indoors into his cafe and just lay down. Maybe it was the fatigue, maybe the altitude, maybe the cold. I don’t know. In no shape to walk back to the caravan, I rented a room and slept off right there. I must have slept all day. The kids had a whale of a time, running around the place, eating delicious food, showering, playing with kids, and gorging on candy.
M1 was dissappointed that we weren't staying in the caravan. Wasn't that the whole point, he asked. Perhaps. One has to adapt. Also, once you've seen the scenery between Nako and Tabo, nothing really matters. You are in another world. You just want to soak in the scenery. Tell yourself this is real. Are we still on planet 🌏?
We have done 1,003 km so far, and the mileage has averaged out to 11.7/100km, over plains and mountains. This is still a lot better than the mileage in Gurgaon, so I’m not complaining.
So far, fuel was our primary cost in this trip. Food was cheap, averaging ₹100 per person for lunch and dinner, and lesser for breakfast. Here at #Tabo, there is so much good food, so much local cuisine to try, that our food bill has gone for a toss. I am frankly not keeping count. We are here to have a good time, not to keep costs low. Enjoying local cuisine is definitely a part of the #roadtrip experience. A good sideeffect is that M1 has stopped asking me when we are going to begin cooking our own food. We have always used our cooking gear when we go camping, except this time. It’s a big let down for him. But now that we are surrounded by pizzas, pancakes, thukpa, samthuk, fresh green salad, phaktse and what not, he doesn’t care about cooking.
On NH505 between Karchham and Nako:
M1: This road is so broken. How can it be a National Highway?
Me: There is construction work going on, so it is broken in places. But where the road work is complete, the tarmac is as smooth as the best road in the world. They even go around manually sweeping the roads every day, to remove the stones that have fallen from the mountains above.
People from all over the country have gathered to build this road for you. Engineers, military people, and poor labourers. All of them are slogging here in the most inhospitable conditions, covered in dust, with the sun beating down on them and the wind howling all around. Every time our vehicle passes, they stop their work and move to the side. One one side is a steep fall, on the other side rocks can fall down on them. The poor labourers must be working for a few hundred rupees a day, their poor children playing beside them with rocks. The children are unwashed, unkempt, sunburnt, and when the cars whizz past they throw up little sharp pieces of stone that hit them. Yet they are all working relentlessly.
M1: Ouch!
We can never have enough #gratitude and #respect for what #nature and #mankind give us. I try as much as possible to make my children be #thankful for all they have, and to be aware of their privilege. Sometimes that ends up in rants like these.
M2 noticed that this is how our #route looks in #satellite view.
Been #riding beside the #sutlej for an hour now.
Now accepting #roadtrip #song #recommendations
We lost our way on the road to #Tabo. Looks like it wasn't such a bad thing 😀
It's the #journey not the destination!
#travel #instatravel #India #incredibleindia #mountains
#washbasin
#camping #vanlife #roadtrip
Those of you who are following us on Insta and Facebook, would you please share the link https://www.instagram.com/caravahan/ on these mediums.
We are trying to get to a critical mass of people like minded people seeing our posts. What we are doing is highly unusual for India, and we can use all of the advice and support we can get.
We crossed Nathpa shortly after noon. We should have eaten lunch here, because we found no restaurant after this. At Karcham we turned off of the National Highway towards Sangla. The road quality immediately dropped. I had to be attentive at all times. We are carrying a lot of food, but there wasn't enough space beside the road to stop and eat it.
It's 4pm now and we are having lunch at Sangla. We will head on further after this and hopefully find a good place to pitch tent and set up camp.
I must acknowledge the very useful advice and tips I've received so far from Preeti, Rahul, Gargi, Aman, Chaitali and Priya. More advice, and warnings about road conditions, would be very useful, so do share the link https://www.instagram.com/caravahan/
Thanks much for reading.
Freshly showered.
Yesterday we started from Kasauli at day break, and reached Ponda after sunset. Since we were on the road all through, with the occasional meal break, we didn't have a chance to shower.
This morning we saw people, mostly truckers, showering by the side of the road. How could we pass up the opportunity? What's more, the water turned out to be refreshingly warm. Perhaps a hot water spring was the source.
We have been brushing and going to the loo at temples, monasteries and such. Restaurant washrooms are a hit or a miss, so we avoid them.
Thats what #vanlife is about, I guess. If we build ourselves a proper #caravan, a toilet, shower and kitchenette will be the things we will add in over and above what the #van offers.
#HimachalTourism #HimachalPradesh #Kinnour #Sangla #SanglaValley
Tyre burst. We moved to the left of the road to allow a vehicle coming uphill to pass. The water pipeline by the side of the road cut the tyre.
#vanlife #roadtrip #travelwithkids #kidsofinstagram
The kids will soon wake up to this view.
The three of us squeezed in at the back tonight. M1 just snuggled in between me and M2 after we had slept. The idea always was for one kid to sleep on a fully reclined front seat. But we were quite comfortable. The 4.5'x6' bed is adequate for the three of us when it's cold outside. Inside it was perfectly warm and cozy.
OK. The boys are stirring. Gotta go.
#nofilter #Kinnour #HimachalTourism #HimachalPradesh #vanlife #caravan #roadtrip
Our first view of #snowcappedmountains had the kids yelping with joy.
#roadtrip #HimachalTourism #HimachalPradesh #Jakhari
Someone asked for a pic of the outside of our #van. Here it is. We have made no changes on the outside (yet). Not even a carrier. Indian authorities are notorious in this respect, always picking on people who mod their vehicles. So we are playing it safe.
#vanlife #caravan #roadtrip
Our #watermelon seller is also a #vanlifer. His #caravan is built on a truck. He's got a full size cooking gas, utensils, and some gear in a gunnysack. He's got #thresh on the floor of his truck, and a sheet spread on it works as his bed. His #caravaninteriors are quite roomy compared to ours.
He hails from #Una. He can understand and speak #Hindi, but responded to my Hindi in #Punjabi. The watermelons are from Madhya Pradesh. 🍉 🚐
#vanlife #roadtrip #tinyhomes #tinyhouse #simpleliving
@fakeera_baanwra I fed the 🐒s #watermelon for #lunch. Does that make you happy?
#vanlife #Theog #HimachalTourism #HimachalPradesh #roadtrip
Had to drive all the way up to #Kasauli for #dinner. The weather is good. We can see things getting #chilly in an hour.
#vanlife #roadtrip #HimachalPradesh
देखो, देखो वोह आ गए
The mountains are here
#vanlife #HimachalPradesh #HimachalTourism #roadtrip #mountains
If we cross #Kasauli today, we can sleep in the van without air conditioning. That's another two hours of driving. And the sun would be about to set. Let's see.
#vanlife #HimachalTourism
M2: How do you know the names of restaurants on the highway?
Me: Because it's मूरथल की दाल।
M2: What is the point of building a home van if we eat in a restaurant?
M1: Dad isn't carrying a propane tank inside the #Innova because it isn't safe.
Me: Yeah I went to Badshahpur and the 2 kg tanks were all home made not factory made. Not happening inside, or even outside on the carrier.
M2: RVs in the US are better. They have a full kitchen.
Tough customer, M2.
Instagram needs a pic with anything I say. So, candy land.
Also, table turnover times at Sukhdev are amazing.
This is what our route looks like. #Gurgaon to #Nako in #HimachalPradesh, and likely on to #Tabo and #Kaza. Looks like the #KMPExpressway will let us bypass all of #Delhi.
#experientialtravel #vanlife #mosttreacherousroadintheworld
Nothing here.
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