The air outside is so clear that I can smell everything. The fumes of a motorcycle as it whizzed past. The distant smell of someone smoking. The smoke from an earthen chulha, in a shack beside the neighbourhood fence.

I've only experienced this is one Indian city before. Bangalore. You can smell everything there, because the air is clear. Also on the beach in Chennai and Goa.

All these smells, wafting in through my N99 mask as I walk about.